Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Returnal Reading List

Look how much my reading has slowed since returning to the states. Reading all the internets, that's why!
I don't quite remember what I read when I was at home in May/June but here's the July list. In addition, a scale of 1-5 of how much I enjoyed it with 1 being terrible and 5 being the best best

Julio
1. Asterios Polyp, David Mazzucchelli - 4
2. Lux the Poet, Martin Millar - 2
3. Blankets, Craig Thompson - 4
4. Lord of the Flies, William Golding - 2
5. Hitchhiker's Guide (current), Douglas Adams - 4
6. Evolutionary Analysis (I actually have read almost this entire textbook - a first), Freeman and Herron - 3

Augusto/ Septiembre
1. The Sight of Sound: Music, representation, and the History of the Body, Richard Leppert - 2
2. Sula, Toni Morrison - 3
3. Catching Fire, Suzanne Collins - 3 (not even ashamed about this one. The Galapagos reading lives on!)
4. Mockingjay, Suzanne Collins - 3
5. Song of Solomon, Toni Morrison - current
6. The Restaurant at the End of the Universe, Douglas Adams - current



TextbooksWorld Regions
Physics
Cell and Molecular Biology
History of Music in Western Culture

The night before last I dreamed of the Galapagos (people, swimming into pencil sea urchins (?), some travel angst) and last night I dreamed of Nepal (baje, traditions, people).

My subconscious!!!!!

Monday, April 23, 2012

so close...

I was so close to making it through life on an island without getting a sunburn! But today that changed. I spent the morning snorkeling and readin' on the beach at La Loberia. The burn isn't bad, but it's there.

I forget where I found this pic (whoops) but it's beautiful la loberia !

BOOK LIST

Living on an island and mostly computer-less means lots of reading! Here's my booklist so far, from Quito to the Galapagos.

ernero
1. Sounds of Voice
2. Quito Philharmonic

febrero
3. Defying Ocean's End
4. Utopia
5. Lonesome George, A Conservation Icon
6. Evolutionary Catastrophes
7. The Clothes On Their Backs

marzo 
8. Song of Names
9. October Country
10. The Hunger Games (I)
11. Edge of Justice
12. Goosebumps: Spooky Beach
13. Law of Love
14. The Last Song
15. The Ugly Stepsister
16. My Sweet Audrina

abril
17. The Lost World
18. Valentine Murder
19. Portraits of America
20. Art Photography Now
21. The Branch Will Not Break
22. Galapagos at Crossroads
23. Santa Cruise holiday mystery
24. The Empty Ocean
25. Rom
26. London Bridges
27. Red Fox

And of course --- so many scientific papers!

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are in the Galápagos.

http://www.rpp.com.pe/2012-04-18-angelina-jolie-y-brad-pitt-llegaron-de-visita-a-las-islas-galapagos-noticia_472986.html

Friday, March 30, 2012

spring break '12: hopping around the islands

We had our first ''break'' from our classes to go on an all-expenses paid (as part of our semester fee ;) ) to the other islands. Three days in Santa Cruz, and 4 days in Isabella, I saw so much NATURE! Read on to hear about the best parts of the trip.

*disclaimer: none of these photos are mine. Some were collected from the internet, and some were taken by my very talented friends!

Bartolome Island

 One of the most photographed spots in the Galapagos, and for good reason! 
Near that big pointy rock is a snorkel site of WONDERS!

Quite possibly the best snorkeling site in all of the islands. Red cushion sea stars covering the benthic floor, white tip hammerheads hiding under ledges, white tip hammerheads hovering, white tip hammerheads in the open, sea lions swimming, and best of all --- PENGUINOS!

 I first saw him jet by, like a turtle in the water. Following close, I couldn't lose him! I held my snorkel in my mouth for fear of spitting it out as my breath became shallow and feelings of joy pulsated through my body. He swam around for a bit and raced off. I lost him. But wait! I saw a flurry of fish activity over near the rocky shore. The penguin was fishing! And I was snorkeling to see it! The small silvery fish bunched to form a large mass in a group, the penguin would dive down under the group and pop up, splitting the group. I'm not sure how much he was actually able to catch. He didn't seem very efficient. As a bird, he kept having to surface but would quickly dive down again. 

My good friend Mackenzie was with me as we saw the spectacle. Afterwards, we hugged (in the water) out of joy. Pure, sheer, beautiful joy.


Fun facts about the Galapagos Penguins!
1. They are the Northern-most penguins in the world!
2. They can only live in the Galapagos due to the Humboldt current that travels along the coast of S. America that brings cold water and nutrients.
3. Only a population of about 1500 penguins live amongst all the islands, but none live where I normally am in San Cristobal.




Me and some of my closest buds, Emily (from Kansas) and Mackenzie (from South Carolina but goes to UMiami)


The Pacific Voyagers

Living in a place like the Galapagos surprisingly allows me to meet many people from all over the world: Argentina, Colombia, Denmark, Holland. Travelling to Santa Cruz, this trip was no different. We met a group of sailors from different countries throughout the South Pacific - the Pacific Voyagers. My friends and I first first met the voyagers as we were watching a public showing of a video the group made, and a guy behind us said ''hey can you watch our beers?'' Without waiting for a response, he put his down near our feet and ran up with the rest of the group that was assembling and they proceeded to perform a haka ancestral war dance at the end of the video. Not the usual thing one sees in the Galapagos. When they returned, we met some of the other voyagers and learned their purpose: to ''raise awareness'' about ocean conservation by travelling throughout the Pacific and other parts of the world. The group travels in Vakas, a type of canoe that the South Pacific Islander's ancestors once used, and they navigate solely based on navigational stars. No GPS.

After befriending the group for a couple of days, they actually let us board the vaka and check it out! so cool. so cramped. I don't think I could travel in one of those for a year, but it must be very enlightening and carrying self-meaning to connect with one's ancestors like that.

Vaka. 
Doesn't it look like it emerged right from a story book?


Los Tuneles

Carrying on, in Isabela we encountered the next-best snorkel site ever: Los Tuneles. Actually, maybe the two sites can share the #1 title because this one was pretty amazing too. The tunnels are a series of volcanic rock intertwining through crystal clear waters.



While snorkeling, I found tiny spots to dive under, and once I even snorkeled into a tiny underwater cave where I popped my head up and was surrounded in a little bubble of volcano rock with no sight of the sky. I took another breath, and found the rest of my way out. In these little caves I saw lobsters and groups of wrasses, but one has to be careful because these are also the hangouts of the white-tip reef shark!


My marine class, naturally up to no good. Missing in the photo: our one other guy, Seth

Getting to los tuneles is about a 45 minute boat ride. 45 minutes cruising through the open water. 45 minutes of nature watching. 45 minutes of potential opportunities to see mantas. And not only see them. If we spotted a manta, our awesome boat driver would slow the boat down and let us JUMP IN the water MULTIPLE TIMES after the manta rays. We were in and out of the boat like navy seals.


Is it comprehensible how big these mantas are? Picture this:


And we were swimming, pulling, kicking with all our might to keep up with these beauties. Once I got close enough, one of them just allowed me to float right above her, barely swimming away, me barely breathing. I think I hugged someone else in the water out of pure joy.

The Rest of the Week
The rest of the week brought hikes in Isabela to the volcano chico, a part of the Sierra Negra chain which last erupted in 2005. We also visited the giant tortuga breeding center, and visited various naturey things along the islands. Oh AND! Roxanne and I went on a dive! A cave dive!  Finally after all of our failed efforts when we last visited Isabela, we went to a site called Cuatro Hermanos (4 brothers). Flashlight in hand, we didn't go far in, maybe only 40m before turning around, but it was enough for the light to completely disappear.

Right in that little hole in the wall.

Returning home

The Friday return trip home was not without wonder, for we saw jumping mantas, jumping dolphins, and fin whales! oh my! All in all, a wonderful, relaxing 'Spring Break' (even though I did step on some sort of thorn or sea urchin that is still working its way out now). Viva Ecuador!

CAT ON A COUCH

Time of incident: 8:20pm
Date: The other night

I was sitting on one of the couches right in the front of the university, readin' a book, when a stray kitten came MEWING IN! he came right up to me, and after a few snaps from my finger, jumped up and purred on my chest/lap SO CUTE! But he must have been hungry because soon he jumped down and wandered off. best evening, ever. and he didn't even feel that dirty!

Friday, March 2, 2012

life at sealevel

4 weeks down! I'm finally settled in to my classes, schedule, family, friends (mas o menos). Life:

- Class: Marine Life. Just finished this module, which was like a biology of fisheries class plus many other marine species. The class was with this amazing professor, who was very philosophical, telling us to ''keep our eyes open, above and below the water''. We learned to identify all of the dominant species here through snorkel trips every day. It feels so cool to know ''that's a sargent major!'' or ''I see you, you camoflauged bravo clinnid.''

- Class: Marine Ecology: I am in the middle of this class, with a teacher who is very passionate about sea lions and whales. Originally from Germany, she has done a lot of work and conservation here in Ecuador and the Galapagos. She is an interesting person, but the class itself is a bit boring. Its a bit repetitive from everthing we've covered so far. I just did a presentation this morning concerning Seamounts, underwater extinct volcanoes that support a huge diversity of life due to their 'island-like' isolation. Those are cool! Deep sea exploration.

- Family: I live with an older woman named Natty, who owns a hostel. The hostel guests sleep in rooms upstairs, but I sleep in the family part. Natty's daughter, Dulia, cooks for the hostel guests, and for me and Carmen. Carmen is her international student also in my program. Dulia and her family live just around the corner but they are over here all the time eating and lounging. They are really only in their own house for sleeping.  I'm pretty lucky because Dulia makes prety delicious food and is creative with vegetarian recipies. And she always gives me at least half a plate of vegetables, which is something that not many other people get on this island.

Dulia is married to Puerti who works as a taxi driver all day nearly every day. They also have an 18yr old son who works in a copy shop during the day and takes English classes at night. His English is already really good though. The whole family works so hard.

Friends: I have local friends! I think! A couple of guys were singing and playing guitar in this loft-area down in the Malacone (boardwalk). It took about one song for me to jump in with a ''perdon, tu conoces originales canciones?'' And then I just sat down to sing and talk with them. Since then, we've met up again and just hung around, sharing my ukulele, jumping on trampolines, running into them at the beach. But they like to meet up every night, I guess like I do with my friends in the summer, and I can't handle that because a) I get tired and b) its exhausting constantly communicating in Spanish all the time. Good fun, good patience, good practice, but still tiring at times.










Wednesday, February 29, 2012

29 Febrero

A leap year in the Galapagos. Granted one extra day in Paradise. I didn't want to waste this extra day, so after class, a few friends and I took our first venture into the highlands. We visited El junco, the Galapagos' only freshwater lake, and its in a volcano ridge that has since been filled. Walking around the open green expanse meeting the clear blue day felt straight out of a Miyazaki film. Afterwards we went to the Galapagera, a breeding center for giant tortioses. Not as big as they can get, but so cool to watch when eating. And the baby center! Just like the size of normal box turtles.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

9-day Field Trip

hola! HERE IS AN UPDATE! and it's not even written by me. No puedo sit down and write everything that happened during the 9-day field trip along the coast of Ecuador. So I invite you to read my classmate's version: http://koverbey.wordpress.com/2012/01/26/ecuador-defined/ . Katie is a student from UNC. Note that some of her perspectives and ~activities~ are different, but she is a more skilled writer than me.

And note that I did not partake in the Muisne activities she is talking about, partly because I was sick at home in the research station ):

My personal highlights from the trip:
- Getting to know everyone on the trip. These 11 other students are going to be in all of my classes for the next 3 months! We really got to know each other through sickness and in health as we travelled, learned, and dove.
- Poor Luis - our teacher hurt is back while body surfing. I was on shore when he crawled up and out of the water. Asking him what he needed, his response: "I need Jesus." He had no recollection of this after. I think due to his pain, our class was more relaxed than usual.
- Learning about the fishing industries (lobsters, general, sharks!)
- Diving for science: Surveying fish, mobile macroinvertebrates, coral density. I was responsible for the invertebrate surveys, so I was looking for things like these:
From left to right: pencil sea urchin, blue sea star, sea cucumber, Diadema mexicanum

And now I'm finally in the Galapagos, snorkeling away!



Machalilla National Park, declared in 1979 is unfortunately poorly regulated. The current regulation states that a shark can be kept by fishermen on two conditions:
1.      1. Only if it is caught as bycatch
2.    2. The whole shark must be landed on the boat
Unfortunately, many fishermen target these sharks under the disguise of bycatch. We saw the horrible fishing industry firsthand On Saturday morning, we saw firsthand fishermen cutting off the front dorsal and pelvic fins of the sharks. On the beach, our guide Juan Manuel navigated his way easily through the stands of chopping boards, ice crates, and backing trucks. Fishermen were yelling and chopping, chopping and throwing, carelessly stepping over 4 ft long shark on the beach as if it were another log or piece of trash. Pelicans hung around the shore, demanding scraps from the fishermen. 

 A family affair
The fishing community really is a family affair: young boys were carrying crates on the boats and a young girl was helping to chop fish with her mother. Small shops selling breakfast to feed the fishermen and families lined the beach.
            It was reassuring though to see two women sampling the sizes of the sharks that were lined on the chopping tables. Maybe there are doing conservation studies. The new provision stating that the whole shark must be landed is a good start to protecting the animals, but it is still not enough.   

Some things I learned from Juan Manuel concerning how the sharks are used:
-        -- Fins: Used for shark fin soup, China is a big importer. In recent decades this has been a problem because shark fin soup used to be a delicacy to be only eaten during marriages to show a family’s wealth. But now, people are demanding the soup at all times of the year. And this isn’t only restricted to China—other countries and states, like California, are even selling the soup.
-        --- Meat: Shark meat is apparently not as “delicious” as other types of fish and therefore usually call for less money. Sellers have been known to resell shark meat as other types, especially in the highlands and other countries, to those who don’t know the difference in order to earn more money.
-        -- Fashion products


Hopefully in the future, Ecuador can follow through and enforce its laws.

Monday, January 16, 2012

These photos are from my walk around the old center of Quito. Traditionally, the old parts of Quito have kept it's style because the people who lived in this section couldn't afford to modernize their houses. 
Now, it's a historic center and residents are not allowed to alter the outside appearance at all.


 but not all buildings look classic and quaint.


 This square (plaza de la Independencia?) attracts many old people! They sit and chat and sometimes sleep, using the plaza as a meeting place. I just find it interesting how evenly they space themselves out.


 old photos on exhibit

Thursday, January 12, 2012

living in a new continent

I've survived my first week! From orientations and campus tours to 25cent bus rides, I've experienced so much in this first week that it's felt like a month.

This study abroad is so different than living in Nepal. Firstly, I feel much more independent. I've got to figure it out on my own. Even though I'm in a group of other American students that also need to "figure it out" it's been more about me discovering things and taking initiative to really not waste any moments while here in Quito. I don't have the lovely Riju and Sagar to show me around and take me to the shops and drive me on motorbikes (I MISS YOU GUYS!). I've really been exploring on my own.

I can't waste any time because we're only in Quito for one month! One month may seem like a long time, but when we have a 9-day field trip along the coast of Ecuador and only two weekends here, I'm sure the time will fly by.

My experiences so far:
- picking fruits from our backyard garden
 - meeting almost all of my host-family's family, including a grandson who is my age.
- so many kisses on the cheek.
- going out on Saturday night and meeting his friends
- discovering Quito and Carolina park
- sharing thoughts with Susan, a good friend from Virginia Tech who is also here! It helps to be comfortable with someone.
- listening to my host-dad play piano (all transposed by ear)
- eating at the delicious dining halls on campus
 - bicycling 20km through the countryside on the Chaquinan Trail
- figuring out the bus system
- getting really excited about marine biology and this semester!

And as the President of our university said, "Don't go to class. Live Ecuador."

And now for some photos:

 Front-view of my house in Cumbaya, a suburb-type of Quito.

Backyard garden: Even for Ecuadorian standards, this is a large garden. 
And so many fruit trees! mandarinas, naranjas, avocados, limes, lemons, and the list goes on...
An afternoon snack.

Monday, January 9, 2012

The Closing of the Second Journey

Oops, so it looks like I didn't post at all during my last month in Nepal. Things got busy!
- Dad, Lena, and Mom came from the states.
- Shristi's wedding: a week of celebrations
- Hiking
- Maa's jaanku!!!



Seriously, I will post a few pictures of these things soon, but you saw all of the photos on FB anyway. ;)