Friday, March 2, 2012

life at sealevel

4 weeks down! I'm finally settled in to my classes, schedule, family, friends (mas o menos). Life:

- Class: Marine Life. Just finished this module, which was like a biology of fisheries class plus many other marine species. The class was with this amazing professor, who was very philosophical, telling us to ''keep our eyes open, above and below the water''. We learned to identify all of the dominant species here through snorkel trips every day. It feels so cool to know ''that's a sargent major!'' or ''I see you, you camoflauged bravo clinnid.''

- Class: Marine Ecology: I am in the middle of this class, with a teacher who is very passionate about sea lions and whales. Originally from Germany, she has done a lot of work and conservation here in Ecuador and the Galapagos. She is an interesting person, but the class itself is a bit boring. Its a bit repetitive from everthing we've covered so far. I just did a presentation this morning concerning Seamounts, underwater extinct volcanoes that support a huge diversity of life due to their 'island-like' isolation. Those are cool! Deep sea exploration.

- Family: I live with an older woman named Natty, who owns a hostel. The hostel guests sleep in rooms upstairs, but I sleep in the family part. Natty's daughter, Dulia, cooks for the hostel guests, and for me and Carmen. Carmen is her international student also in my program. Dulia and her family live just around the corner but they are over here all the time eating and lounging. They are really only in their own house for sleeping.  I'm pretty lucky because Dulia makes prety delicious food and is creative with vegetarian recipies. And she always gives me at least half a plate of vegetables, which is something that not many other people get on this island.

Dulia is married to Puerti who works as a taxi driver all day nearly every day. They also have an 18yr old son who works in a copy shop during the day and takes English classes at night. His English is already really good though. The whole family works so hard.

Friends: I have local friends! I think! A couple of guys were singing and playing guitar in this loft-area down in the Malacone (boardwalk). It took about one song for me to jump in with a ''perdon, tu conoces originales canciones?'' And then I just sat down to sing and talk with them. Since then, we've met up again and just hung around, sharing my ukulele, jumping on trampolines, running into them at the beach. But they like to meet up every night, I guess like I do with my friends in the summer, and I can't handle that because a) I get tired and b) its exhausting constantly communicating in Spanish all the time. Good fun, good patience, good practice, but still tiring at times.










Wednesday, February 29, 2012

29 Febrero

A leap year in the Galapagos. Granted one extra day in Paradise. I didn't want to waste this extra day, so after class, a few friends and I took our first venture into the highlands. We visited El junco, the Galapagos' only freshwater lake, and its in a volcano ridge that has since been filled. Walking around the open green expanse meeting the clear blue day felt straight out of a Miyazaki film. Afterwards we went to the Galapagera, a breeding center for giant tortioses. Not as big as they can get, but so cool to watch when eating. And the baby center! Just like the size of normal box turtles.

Saturday, February 11, 2012

9-day Field Trip

hola! HERE IS AN UPDATE! and it's not even written by me. No puedo sit down and write everything that happened during the 9-day field trip along the coast of Ecuador. So I invite you to read my classmate's version: http://koverbey.wordpress.com/2012/01/26/ecuador-defined/ . Katie is a student from UNC. Note that some of her perspectives and ~activities~ are different, but she is a more skilled writer than me.

And note that I did not partake in the Muisne activities she is talking about, partly because I was sick at home in the research station ):

My personal highlights from the trip:
- Getting to know everyone on the trip. These 11 other students are going to be in all of my classes for the next 3 months! We really got to know each other through sickness and in health as we travelled, learned, and dove.
- Poor Luis - our teacher hurt is back while body surfing. I was on shore when he crawled up and out of the water. Asking him what he needed, his response: "I need Jesus." He had no recollection of this after. I think due to his pain, our class was more relaxed than usual.
- Learning about the fishing industries (lobsters, general, sharks!)
- Diving for science: Surveying fish, mobile macroinvertebrates, coral density. I was responsible for the invertebrate surveys, so I was looking for things like these:
From left to right: pencil sea urchin, blue sea star, sea cucumber, Diadema mexicanum

And now I'm finally in the Galapagos, snorkeling away!



Machalilla National Park, declared in 1979 is unfortunately poorly regulated. The current regulation states that a shark can be kept by fishermen on two conditions:
1.      1. Only if it is caught as bycatch
2.    2. The whole shark must be landed on the boat
Unfortunately, many fishermen target these sharks under the disguise of bycatch. We saw the horrible fishing industry firsthand On Saturday morning, we saw firsthand fishermen cutting off the front dorsal and pelvic fins of the sharks. On the beach, our guide Juan Manuel navigated his way easily through the stands of chopping boards, ice crates, and backing trucks. Fishermen were yelling and chopping, chopping and throwing, carelessly stepping over 4 ft long shark on the beach as if it were another log or piece of trash. Pelicans hung around the shore, demanding scraps from the fishermen. 

 A family affair
The fishing community really is a family affair: young boys were carrying crates on the boats and a young girl was helping to chop fish with her mother. Small shops selling breakfast to feed the fishermen and families lined the beach.
            It was reassuring though to see two women sampling the sizes of the sharks that were lined on the chopping tables. Maybe there are doing conservation studies. The new provision stating that the whole shark must be landed is a good start to protecting the animals, but it is still not enough.   

Some things I learned from Juan Manuel concerning how the sharks are used:
-        -- Fins: Used for shark fin soup, China is a big importer. In recent decades this has been a problem because shark fin soup used to be a delicacy to be only eaten during marriages to show a family’s wealth. But now, people are demanding the soup at all times of the year. And this isn’t only restricted to China—other countries and states, like California, are even selling the soup.
-        --- Meat: Shark meat is apparently not as “delicious” as other types of fish and therefore usually call for less money. Sellers have been known to resell shark meat as other types, especially in the highlands and other countries, to those who don’t know the difference in order to earn more money.
-        -- Fashion products


Hopefully in the future, Ecuador can follow through and enforce its laws.

Monday, January 16, 2012

These photos are from my walk around the old center of Quito. Traditionally, the old parts of Quito have kept it's style because the people who lived in this section couldn't afford to modernize their houses. 
Now, it's a historic center and residents are not allowed to alter the outside appearance at all.


 but not all buildings look classic and quaint.


 This square (plaza de la Independencia?) attracts many old people! They sit and chat and sometimes sleep, using the plaza as a meeting place. I just find it interesting how evenly they space themselves out.


 old photos on exhibit

Thursday, January 12, 2012

living in a new continent

I've survived my first week! From orientations and campus tours to 25cent bus rides, I've experienced so much in this first week that it's felt like a month.

This study abroad is so different than living in Nepal. Firstly, I feel much more independent. I've got to figure it out on my own. Even though I'm in a group of other American students that also need to "figure it out" it's been more about me discovering things and taking initiative to really not waste any moments while here in Quito. I don't have the lovely Riju and Sagar to show me around and take me to the shops and drive me on motorbikes (I MISS YOU GUYS!). I've really been exploring on my own.

I can't waste any time because we're only in Quito for one month! One month may seem like a long time, but when we have a 9-day field trip along the coast of Ecuador and only two weekends here, I'm sure the time will fly by.

My experiences so far:
- picking fruits from our backyard garden
 - meeting almost all of my host-family's family, including a grandson who is my age.
- so many kisses on the cheek.
- going out on Saturday night and meeting his friends
- discovering Quito and Carolina park
- sharing thoughts with Susan, a good friend from Virginia Tech who is also here! It helps to be comfortable with someone.
- listening to my host-dad play piano (all transposed by ear)
- eating at the delicious dining halls on campus
 - bicycling 20km through the countryside on the Chaquinan Trail
- figuring out the bus system
- getting really excited about marine biology and this semester!

And as the President of our university said, "Don't go to class. Live Ecuador."

And now for some photos:

 Front-view of my house in Cumbaya, a suburb-type of Quito.

Backyard garden: Even for Ecuadorian standards, this is a large garden. 
And so many fruit trees! mandarinas, naranjas, avocados, limes, lemons, and the list goes on...
An afternoon snack.

Monday, January 9, 2012

The Closing of the Second Journey

Oops, so it looks like I didn't post at all during my last month in Nepal. Things got busy!
- Dad, Lena, and Mom came from the states.
- Shristi's wedding: a week of celebrations
- Hiking
- Maa's jaanku!!!



Seriously, I will post a few pictures of these things soon, but you saw all of the photos on FB anyway. ;)